To apply acrylic powder for nails, follow these expert steps:
- Prepare the natural nail : Clean, file, and lightly buff the nail surface. Apply a dehydrator to remove oils, then apply a primer to the nail bed only, avoiding the cuticle area
- Set up your materials : Pour monomer (liquid) into a dappen dish. Dip your acrylic brush into the monomer and wipe off excess by tapping the brush on the side of the dish to get the right amount of liquid
- Pick up the acrylic bead : Lightly tap the brush into the acrylic powder 2-3 times to pick up a bead. The size of the bead depends on the area you are working on (smaller for cuticle area, larger for apex and free edge)
- Apply the acrylic beads in zones (Three Bead Method) :
- Zone 1 : Place the first bead near the free edge and drag it toward the nail tip to create a tapered curve.
- Zone 2 : Place a larger bead in the middle of the nail to build the apex (the stress area).
- Zone 3 : Apply a smaller bead near the cuticle area, carefully avoiding flooding the cuticle, then drag it toward the middle bead to blend smoothly
- Feather the beads : Use the tip of your brush to blend the edges of each bead into the next, ensuring a seamless finish without harsh lines
- Shape and smooth : Once the acrylic sets (it will harden in a few minutes, faster in warm environments), file the nail to refine the shape, smooth the surface, and clean the sidewalls and free edge
- Optional layers : You can apply a thin clear layer first before color to strengthen the nail and make future fills easier
- Clean up : Remove dust with a brush, then proceed with nail art or topcoat as desired
Key tips:
- Maintain the correct liquid-to-powder ratio for a perfect bead; practice is essential to master this.
- Angle the client’s finger downward during application to help the acrylic flow and settle evenly
- Avoid flooding the cuticle area to prevent lifting and ensure a natural look
This method ensures a strong, smooth, and professional acrylic nail application suitable for beginners and pros alike